Cosmetic Peels and

Medical Grade acids

A chemical peel is a skin treatment intended to visibly improve the structure of treated tissue by the external application of a caustic solution.

It can simply accelerate the natural processes of exfoliation, but can also completely destroy the epidermis and a more or less large proportion of the dermis. The regenerated skin is usually smoother and less wrinkled. 

Chemical peels are among the oldest forms of skin rejuvenation and form a group of treatments in their own right.
 


 

SUN DAMMAGE

As with all AHA products, do not use the tanning bed and sunbathing during the treatment.

It is mandatory to use stable filters with a high level of protection (minimum SPF 30).

Any peel, even a very superficial one, reduces the thickness of the stratum corneum that protects the skin against the effects of radiation: the diffractive and reflective protection usually afforded in these outermost layers is no longer available, and the overall quantity of rays that penetrate the skin increases. This extra radiation can cause actinic damage in cells that are usually physically protected by the thickness of the skin. Melanocytes are more strongly stimulated, and there is an increased likelihood of pigmentary change. All peels thus allow the sun’s rays to penetrate more easily to at least the basal layer of the epidermis, where keratinocytes ensure re-epithelialization an. t should be remembered that direct exposure to the sun for 10 minutes is enough to trigger pigmentary changes in sensitive individuals during the post-peel period

Enzymatic peel 

proteolytic enzymes

bromelain, papain

for most sensitive skin

Bromelain and papain are proteolytic enzymes that, when applied to the skin at the right concentration, have the ability to dissolve dead, callous epidermal cells.

These enzymes smoothen and gently peel the skin acting only on its surface, without penetrating deeper. 

This is why enzymatic peel do not cause irritation and are suitable for the most sensitive skin that does not tolerate exfoliating acids or mechanical peels.

In addition to the gentle exfoliating action, the enzymes also have

healing, anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.

Mandelic acid 

up to 40%

alpha-hydroxy-acid

pH 2.0

fine lines, discolouration, acne, seborrhea, enlarged pores, sensitive skin

Mandelic acid normalises keratinisation process and enhances exfoliation.

It has a mild chemical peeling effect, therefore it suits for all skin types and all phototypes. 

Mandelic acid, on one hand, regulates cell renewal, exfoliating the outer layers of the epidermis, thereby improving the structure and colour of the skin. On the other hand, it has strong antibacterial and skin stabilizing properties thanks to which it alleviates inflammation, heals blemishes and acne scars, improves the development of breakouts and blackheads.

 

It highly stimulates the production of Hyaluronic acid, therefore hydrates and strengthens the skin. 

It tends not to cause irritation, redness, severe skin peeling or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, during and after application. For this reason, it can be used throughout the year, - however, sun protection is still required. 

It brightens sun and post-inflammatory discolourations,

improves skin structure, smoothens the surface of the skin.

Mandelic acid is recommended as skin preparation for stronger peels and exfoliating treatments, it facilitates subsequent skin regeneration and prevents the appearance of inflammation.

Lactic acid 

up to 80%

alpha-hydroxy-acid

pH 0.9

sensitive and dehydrated skin, wrinkles, photoaging, acne, keratosis, melasma, rosacea

Lactic acid is used for mild and effective exfoliation, it simultaneously regulates cell renewal and improves the structure and colour of the skin. 

It stimulates the production of collagen whilst increasing the thickness and strength of the dermis.

The properties of lactic acid have been unknowingly used and appreciated since ancient times,

ie. famous Cleopatra's milk baths. 

Lactic acid hydrates the skin through two mechanisms: 

- reduce Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) from the skin which as result  becomes softer and more elastic,

- increase in the level of glycosaminoglycans, compounds that absorb water like a sponge and provide adequate hydration to the deeper layers of the skin.

 

 It reduces fine surface wrinkles and improves skin elasticity and firmness, therefore, is an anti-ageing component.

Lactic acid increases the effectiveness of other cosmetic preparations. The skin treated with lactic acid better absorbs active ingredients from creams, masks etc.

Lactic acid is also helpful in the case of hyperpigmentation and small acne scars, unblocks the pores of the skin and has antibacterial properties, thanks to which it prevents the formation of inflammatory foci, i.e. all kinds of pimples and blackheads.

Salicylic acid 

up to 30%

beta-hydroxy-acid

pH 2.6

acne, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH),
mild to moderate photodamage,
texturally rough skin

Salicylic acid - derived from the bark of the willow tree, rejuvenates and revitalises the skin by removing superficial cells

 Salicylic acid is an aspirin-related (acetylsalicylic acid) compound, therefore it has strong astringent, anti-inflammatory properties, antibacterial properties, regulate sebum secretion and reduce oiliness of the skin.

It is a fat-soluble acid, penetrates therefore through sebum deep into the pores and cleanses them, it penetrates as deep as into the hair follicles, this greatly prevents the formation of pimples and helps eliminate "blackheads". 

It improves skin brightness, skin texture, it "smooths" superficial wrinkling by an improvement of collagen deposition 

Salicylic acid also suitable for dry skin with the problem of contaminated skin pores, especially in the so-called "T-zone", because it does not have drying properties. 

 

Effects: increased epidermal and dermal thickness, improved skin structure, less cellular "alteration", less melanin "compact areas" 

note: Salicylic acid cannot be used by clients who are allergic to salicylates, like aspirin, or pregnant women.

Glycolic acid 

up to 70%

alpha-hydroxy-acid

pH 0.7

photoaged skin, acne marks, discolouration, seborrheic dermatitis, melasma, 

 

Glycolic acid, derived from sugar cane, is the most popular anti-ageing acid.

Its small molecular structure allows penetration into the skin cells, thus resulting in an immediate and intense exfoliation.

Glycolic acid interacts with the fibroblast receptors significantly stimulating the release of intracellular material (collagen, elastin, fibronectin, hyaluronic acid).

This results in the skin looking rejuvenated and regenerated.

Glycolic acid works in two ways:

  • it loosens up thick, piled up, clinging cells which are responsible for the appearance of dry, rough and scaly skin, brown age and sun damage spots.

  • it stimulates the regeneration of collagen and elastin in the deeper layers of the skin. Results from clinical studies have shown the disappearance of fine lines and significant reduction of courser, deeper wrinkles from skin treated with lactic acid

Effects: The skin has a much smoother texture, refined pores it appears healthier, hydrated and more vibrant. Continued use prevents further skin thickening.

Glycolic acid + Azelaic acid 

(20% + 17%)

beta-hydroxy-acid + keratolytic agent

pH 2.2

acne, seborrhea,

contaminated oily, hyperpigmented skin

(sun, hormonal, 

post-traumatic)

Salicylic acid with astringent and keratolytic, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties regulate sebum secretion and reduces the oiliness of oily-acnetic skin.

Azelaic acid - is derived from cereals and has a significant effect against acne.

More specifically, it has comedolytic, and anti-inflammatory action effect (it neutralises Propionibacterium acnes of the pilosebaceous follicle) therefore help fight acne and pigmentation, thereby reducing discolouration and in particular brown spots due to acne

Azelaic acid is a component with anti-bacterial, anti-blackhead, anti-inflammatory and anti-hyperpigmentation effects, used for acne vulgaris, rosacea, as well as pigmented and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

TCA

trichloro acetic acid 

beta-hydroxy-acid + keratolytic agent

pH 2.2

acne, seborrhea,

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